zondag 22 januari 2017

The principles of Bioponics

source: http://bioponica.net/principals-of-bioponics/


WHAT IS BIOPONICS?


Bioponics’ is a new technique of soilless farming pioneered at Bioponica. It is similar yet distinct from hydroponics and aquaponics. This is Bioponica’s definition of bioponics:
  1. Bioponics is soilless, utilizing one or more of the following techniques; FD -flood and drain or EF ebb and flow with media beds, NFT-nutrient film technique in trickling troughs, DWC-deep water culture on floating rafts and the ALT air layer technique on stationary rafts with EF ebbing and flowing water levels.
  2. Bioponics is 100% organic. No manufactured petro-chemical fertilizers, pesticides or herbicides.
  3. With bioponics, fish are optional. Herbivore fish such as tilapia and crawfish do particularly well in bioponic systems, as they are treated more like pond fish, deriving nutrients from biomass teas and aquatic organisms including algae, microbes and duckweed. Raising fish is encouraged but dependency on fish waste is an aquaponics approach, not bioponics.

Nutrient Quality



The quality of fertilizer teas derived from plant derived biomass is superior to manufactured fertilizers.
Plant derived biomass teas provide an ideal balance of trace elements, amino acids, carbohydrates, vitamins, enzymes and plant hormones. Furthermore, there is no buildup of EC electrical conductivity in bioponicsbecause biomass does not typically contain chlorides greater than what the plant requires. For that reason, there is no discharge of water required to maintain balance in bioponics. These features of NPK control, organic fertility and no toxic residue illustrate the viabilityof bioponics as a more sustainable alternative to both aquaponics and hydroponics.
Using the Bioponica process of Nutricycling™ allows for tight control of NPK and PPM’s with bioponics.

More on the definition of bioponics:





100% ORGANIC


By definition “bio” ponics is ‘biological.’ The benefit of this technique is that by growing entirely with organic nutrients, beneficial microbes colonize on and around the plant roots. This aids in biofiltration and improves fertilizing nutrient uptake. Bioponics does not allow for the use of chemical fertilizers. Because of that it is distinct from hydroponics, a soilless technique that primarily uses inorganic fertilizers.
Some growers attempt to grow hydroponically with organic fertilizers but unless there are measures taken to oxidize (heavily aerate) and/or biofilter organic carbon, the ‘sterile’ hydroponic environment will go anaerobic and plants suffer. The Biogarden is a Bioponica growing system that accommodates optimal organic growing conditions for plants, with or without fish. And, it simultaneously acts to create liquid fertilizer from biomass teas. We use the natural forces of the vortex to oxygenate the enriched water and a blended grow media microbes s for biofiltration.
As with the best soil care, bioponics is about nourishing the diverse array of living organisms that support the plant roots. The more common, and important microbes in the organic garden include nitrifiyers and decarboxylators along with rhizobacteria, microrhizomes, protozoans, nematodes and earthworms. These are the heart of the food web, cycling nutrients from plant derived organics and releasing into plant-ready ‘inorganics’.
Plant derived organic fertilizer teas for bioponics also provides a health dose of trace minerals, vitamins, hormones and growth factors to the plant roots.


SOILLESS, NO DIRT.


Bioponics is similar to both hydroponics and aquaponics in that it is soilless. As demonstrated with aquaponics, it is possible to grow plants organically without soil. And yet, bioponics is able to provide more nutrients than aquaponics because there are more options for nutrient inputs than simply fish feed and the fish waste bioproducts. There is also more tolerance in a bioponic system for concentrating nutrients, such as ammonia and BODs (biological oxygen demand – carbon), without harming the fish which require a minimum of oxygen.
The various soilless environments known for raising plants in hydroponics and aquaponics are also possible with bioponics. This includes DWC deep water culture, flood and drain or ebb and flow media beds and NFT nutrient film technique.


FISH OPTIONAL


Fish are well suited to bioponics. In fact they are encouraged. Easy enough to raise, sustainably, because herbivores can be raised on the same grass extracts, as long as carbon has not been overly removed. Best thing about raising fish with bioponics is that you can be sure they are organic fish. That’s hard to find, for any fish in the supermarket! In addition to the leachings and detritus of decomposing grasses and food discards, herbivore and omnivore fish can also be fed duckweed and earthworms, which are among the polyculture of a bioponic growing operation.
But they are not required. This is a key distinction. Raising fish in order to feed plants organically is not a practical arrangement. Fish like and alkaline environment, plants prefer more acidic. Often fish are overcrowded for the purpose of providing nutrients for the plants and their disease or fluctuations in population with harvesting can cause headaches when trying to maintain nutrient balance. Finally, fish and fish feed do not offer a comparable NPK and trace elements value for plant fertilization that can be derived when using Bioponica’s method of processed fertilizer teas from plant matter.

By comparison; The other soilless systems:



Hydroponics is popular as it conserves water use through soilless recirculating growing techniques. And, plant growth is optimized by managing NPK and PPM of chemical fertilizers. These are the primary hydroponic benefits, yet to manage EC-electrical conductivity, chloride contaminants from manufactured mineral elements must be plunged from the system and disposed of into the environment. There is no EC buildup or water discharged in bioponics.


Aquaponics is also soilless. It performs well for green leafy plants, and does so by using fish feed and fish urine as a source of nutrient inputs. It does not, however, do so well for fruiting or heavy feeding vegetables and herbs. That’s due to the challenge in simultaneously optimizing the conditions for plants and fish which have different environmental needs. Fish like alkaline water, plants need more acidic. More potassium and phosphorus is needed than that which is produced from the fish urine in the alkaline pH environment. And it’s difficult to regulate concentration of fish urine nutrients to ideally satisfy plant needs through different stages of growth.

A word about “EC” electrical conductivity.



Electrical conductivity is a major concern with hydroponics growing. This is mostly do to the use of chemical fertilizers that contain chloride salts. The chloride element contributes a persistent negative ionic charge which raises the electrical conductivity of the hydroponic solution. Chloride ‘creeps up’ in the solution because it is not appreciably taken up by the plants. Excessive chloride buildup or an increased EC impedes plant uptake of the critical fertilizer nutrients. In fact the plant literally dehydrates when EC electrical conductivity rises so high that the chloride osmotic forces draw water from the plant roots and wilt the plant.
Mined or manufactured potassium, calcium and magnesium contain chlorides which increase EC electrical. Chlorides are the primary reason HCL, hydrochloric acid,  is not recommended for lowering pH in hydroponic systems.
The treatment used to reduce chloride buildup in hydroponic systems is reverse osmosis, which gets expensive in larger systems, or periodic water discharge, which is inefficient and bad for the environment.
With bioponics unless source water has high chlorides there is no buildup of EC electrical conductivity.  That’s because plant derived potassium, calcium and magnesium are mobilized from organics extracts and contains relatively few chlorides, only what the plant needs. For that reason, there never is a buildup of EC electrical conductivity with bioponics. This means fertilization water is never discharged and the process of managing fertilization is much easier…more natural.

The Nutricycler and nutrient blends for making organic fertilizer



Using the Bioponica process of Nutricycling™ allows for tight control of NPK and PPM’s with bioponics. The quality of fertilizer teas derived from plant derived biomass is superior to manufactured fertilizers. They provide an ideal balance of trace elements, amino acids, carbohydrates, vitamins, enzymes and plant hormones. Furthermore, there is no buildup of EC electrical conductivity in bioponicsbecause biomass does not typically contain chlorides greater than what the plant requires. For that reason, there is no discharge of water required to maintain balance in bioponics. These features of NPK control, organic fertility and no toxic residue illustrate the viabilityof bioponics as a more sustainable alternative to both aquaponics and hydroponics.

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Growing indoors with bioponics

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Backyard and research growing modules for bioponics

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Commercial-sized bioponic growing systems

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zondag 27 november 2016

Garduino-automated gardening system (full tutorial)


Picture of Garduino-Automated Gardening System

This instructable is a guide for setting up an automated gardening system using an arduino and other cheap electronic parts.  It allows sustainable gardening by using sensors to determine soil moisture, as well as a webscraper to determine future weather.  It uses this information to save water by only using the requisite amount.   Requirements for this project include experience soldering, some basic programming experience, and much patience for debugging.

See video for example of why we need this.

Step 1: Build-Moisture Sensors

The moisture sensors rely on the resistivity of water to determine the moisture level of the soil.  The sensors measure the resistance between two separate nails by sending a current through one of them and reading a corresponding voltage drop due to a known resistor value.  The more water the lower the resistance, and using this we can determine threshold values for moisture content.
We will use three such sensors and use a multiplexor to alternate reading between them without using more than one arduino analog port.
While we will include a circuit board diagram, we recommend building the circuits on a breadboard first which will allow for both understanding and debugging.
Each sensor uses two nails, a 100 ohm resistor, and a 100 K-ohm resistor.  We built a casing for each sensor with acrylic tubes, however this is not necessary.

Step 2: Build-Moisture Sensor- 1

The first step is to find two equal length nails of any type, although we found that longer and non-galvanized nails worked best (galvanized nails do not work at all).  Next, a wire needs to be soldered to each nail.  It is best to use weaved wire since it is  flexible and less likely to break during use.  The nails act as a heat sink, and to counteract this they must be heated before soldering.  A hotplate was used to get the nails very hot.
A word of caution, as the name implies the hot plate gets extremely hot, as will the nails, so please use pliers to remove the nails from the hotplate.
It is useful to shrink wrap the soldered parts of the nails, especially if you are not planning to make a probe structure.

Step 3: Build-Moisture Sensor-2

The next step is to wire the nails to the arduino.  Use the circuit diagram provided.  The sensor works by sending a fake AC current by alternating DC current between the two nails.  The analog voltage is then read and a moisture level can be inferred.  Our code for the whole project will be available.   A picture of the finished sensor with acrylic covering is on the next page.

We read an input voltage into a multiplexor from a voltage dividor created by the 100K resistor. The 100 Ohm resistor, attached to the other lead of the sensor, is used for current limiting. Current limiting imposes an upper limit on the current coming into the arduino, which protects it from short-circuiting.

Step 4: Build-Moisture Sensor-3 (optional)

Take a hollow acrylic tube and attach it to a pointed front with two holes for nails. Seal the bottom from water with silicone glue. Make sure that the nails are not touching as this will short the circuit.  Use a rubber stopper to seal the top.  It is important that the nails be equal distances apart on each of the moisture sensors, as any variation could affect resistivity readings from one or more of the probes. 

Step 5: Build-Moisture Sensor-4

To improve performance we used three soil moisture sensors.  However, there may not be enough analog pins on the arduino to accommodate all of these depending on what other attachments you are using.  We solved this problem by using a multiplexer, which allowed us to switch between and read from each of the three pairs of sensors. The circuit diagram is given below.

Step 6: Build-Temperature Sensor -1

For the temperature sensor we used a TC-74 chip.  The wiring here is pretty simple and is shown below.  It is recommended that you use 1K resistors on the ports connecting to the arduino (SDA, SCLK).  The sensor works by exposure of the chip's metal tab. Attaching this metal tab to a piece of sheet metal will increase the sensor's sensitivity over a wider area and improve performance.

Temperature readings are used to normalize soil moisture content readings, since higher temperatures will increase resistivity between the nails, potentially giving inaccurate readings. It is important to correct for temperature so the arduino will trigger watering at the appropriate time. 

Step 7: Build-Circuit Board

Make a circuit board.  The schematic is shown below and the board file is attached.  We used the program EAGLE to design the board, and the files are in that format.

Step 8: Build-Pump System-Relay

The pump system we created uses a small fountain pump attached to the arduino with a solid state relay, allowing the arduino to turn the pump on or off automatically.  Strip off a segment of the pump's insulating tubing, and cut only one of the inner wires in half.  Attach each end of the newly cut wire to the relay's two outputs.  Be careful to avoid touching any exposed metal on the relay, as it is at a high voltage. We recommend putting electrical tape over the exposed wires.  Finally, connect the relay's ground to the the arduino's ground and the relay's input to an arduino digital pin (in our case 5). 

Step 9: Build-Pump System-Reservoir

The submerged pump needs a constant amount water to function properly.  To automate this process we used a float valve that attaches to a hose and opens when water is needed and closes when the water level rises.  Make sure to drill the hole high enough to give the float valve room, and that the tank is wide enough to accommodate the float.

Step 10: Build-Pump System-Tubing

Drill small holes through a length of plastic tubing that is the correct size for the pump.  Then cut pvc pipe into 5-8 inch segments, punch small holes through their centers, and thread the plastic tubing through the holes.  These will be staked in the earth and provide a stable base for the tubing.  One may want to put a point on the bottom of the small pvc pipes so they are easier to stake.  There are many other ways to build the sprinkler system, so check out your local hardware store for some inspiration.

Step 11: Connect

When connected, the circuit should look like this.  Note: this picture includes a wifly shield that will hopefully be implemented in the future.  Notice that we connected the relay to the wifly shield.  It would be better to put this on the board, however, this was an oversight on our part. 

Step 12: Build-Plastic Enclosure (optional)

We then used a regular plastic box 15x10x6 cm to enclose the circuit board and a separate box to enclose the relay.  The arduino and relay need to be protected from the elements if they are to be placed outside in a garden. This separation allows the relay to get very hot but not damage the circuit board, however, it should not get very hot if using the code provided at the end.

Step 13: Code

The garduino uses arduino and python programs that interact with one another through the library pySerial. The arduino checks the soil moisture content and if low, triggers the python web scraper and find tomorrow's weather forecast.  If the forecast includes rain, python tells the arduino to delay checking soil moisture content for the next 24 hours.  If the forcast is dry then the arduino will be triggered to water.  After this, the system will recheck soil moisture content every twenty minutes to see if more water is needed.  if water is not needed at the initial watering check, or after a recheck, the system waits for 24 hours and the process is repeated.

For the scraper to work, you need to download and install:
- BeautifulSoup
- urllib2
- pySerial

I would recommended creating a github account (https://github.com/) and pulling everything from github.

We used yahoo's weather api to find tomorrow's forecast: http://developer.yahoo.com/weather/

Look here for some good documentation:
- http://www.crummy.com/software/BeautifulSoup/ (Beautiful Soup documentation)
- http://www.regular-expressions.info/ (Regular Expressions, useful for parsing html)
- http://www.linuxforu.com/2012/03/building-image-processing-embedded-systems-using-python-part-3/ (best example of pySerial I found...much better than pySerial's documentation)
- http://www.akeric.com/blog/?p=1140 (another good example of pySerial)

Thanks to Joseph Long for help with the code.

Step 14: Garduino in Action


Step 15: Further Improvements

Further improvements include implementing the wifly shield as well as doing a better calibration of the moisture sensors.  The value that we have for the necessary moisture content to water is estimated and a more careful analysis would help conserve even more water. We would also like to plot real-time data from our garduino using matplotlib and ipython.

How to make Garduino-Automated Gardening System [Full Tutorial]


How to make Garduino-Automated Gardening System


Check the full tutorial here:
http://goo.gl/CxNyRy

E-gardening: the fun way



Arduino Garden Controller - Automatic Watering and Data Logging





Gepubliceerd op 2 apr. 2015
Gardening in the modern age means making things more complicated and arduous, with electrons, bits, and bytes. Behold: the garduino. My brother got me an arduino microcontroller board for Christmas, which to me was a solution looking for a problem. I finally found the problem: fresh herbs are expensive at the grocery store. But apparently not as expensive as adding a bunch of sensors and electronics to your garden.

Build one yourself or just poke around in the code: https://github.com/gradyh/GradyHillho...

Thanks to my brother, Graham, for the Arduino board and editing the narration. Thanks to Chris from YouTube channel AvE (https://www.youtube.com/user/arduinov...) for the tips on soil moisture sensors and water hammer. Most of the parts in this build came from http://www.adafruit.com.

Combining microcontrollers and gardening is a really popular idea. I think that’s because gardens have very simple inputs and outputs that are easy to wrap your head around. I guess people (myself included) see a notoriously simple and relaxed hobby and can’t help but feel compelled to overcomplicate it. But just about anyone can connect the dots between "Garden needs water" and "I am not a responsible human being who is capable of remembering to water a garden every day" and realize, "Hey, I can use technology to overcome my personal shortcomings," and more than that, "I can bend technology to my will and that will feel good to my ego and my sense of self-worth." After all, no one’s hobby is to buy an irrigation controller off the shelf of a hardware store. Thanks for watching, and let me know what you think.

A few technical details below... If there's anything I didn't address, feel free to shoot me a question in the comments.

Moisture sensors that measure the resistance or conductivity across the soil matrix between two contacts are essentially junk. First of all, resistance is not a very good indicator of moisture content, because it is highly dependent on a number of factors which might vary from garden to garden including soil ph, dissolved solids in the water, and temperature. Second, most of them are of poor quality with contacts that easily corrode. For the most part you'd be lucky to get one to last through an entire season. Capacitive sensors are generally more accurate because they are just measuring the change in dialetric properties of the soil which is less sensitive to other environmental factors. They also don't require any exposed conductive surfaces which means they can last a bit longer in the harsh environment of your backyard. My soil moisture sensor (and soil temperature sensor) came from http://www.vegetronix.com.

The arudino’s analog inputs read voltage, so to use a resistive sensor (like the photoresistor I used to measure sunlight), you have to set up a voltage divider. This is just a really simple circuit which divides the voltage drop between your sensor and a known resistor. You know the current is the same for both, so you can calculate the resistance of your sensor using ohm’s law. The only problem here is that a photoresistor’s relationship to illuminance is log-log, that is to say it spans several orders of magnitude. So if you use a big resistor (5k - 10k ohm) in your voltage divider, your sensor will be sensitive to low light levels, but you won’t be able to tell the difference between a sunny day and an overcast one. Since this thing’s going outside, I used a 100 ohm resistor, which should hopefully give me good differentiation between levels of brightness in the daylight.

Music from incompotech.com

Plant-in-the-city


 



http://plantincity.com/tech.html





Inline afbeelding 1

https://www.wired.com/2012/06/kickstarter-plant-city-internet-of-plants/


http://www.core77.com/posts/22632/plant-in-city-bringing-nature-in-a-box-22632


http://www.fastcoexist.com/1680992/this-modular-city-of-plants-can-be-controlled-online#9

http://www.treehugger.com/urban-design/building-city-plants-nyc.html


http://inhabitat.com/plant-in-city-art-installation-uses-stackable-terrariums-to-create-a-lush-urban-environment/


Huy bui

http://huy-bui.com/plantincity/

http://huy-bui.com/


zondag 20 november 2016